Saturday, July 14, 2012

San Sebastian Day 3: Akelaŕe (*Michelin*)

 

Akelaŕe is one of the main reasons we chose to come to San Sebastian. 

 It has earned 3 Michelin stars (the highest possible ranking) and is located at the top of one of the beautiful hills of Spain's northern coast.  Check out the amazing view - really adds to the dining experience!

As with el club Allard's Diego Guerrero, head chef Pedro Subijana is known for his creativity. We can only imagine what would happen if the two of them put their heads together; the dishes at Akelaŕe were as mind-blowing as el club Allard. 

 There are two tasting menu options at Akelaŕe, but everyone starts with the same appetizer:
the "sea garden."
(everything, including the sand, is edible!  each bite was a surprise)

 After that plate full of lovely surprises, Mel chose the Aranori Menu and DJ chose the Bekarki Menu. For the sake of simplicity (there are only but so many synonyms for the word "amazing") and since they describe their dishes better than we ever could,
refer to the photo of each menu for details and let the pictures tell the tale of this surreal dining experience. 

ARANORI MENU 

prawns and french beans cooked in "Orujo" 
(amazing table-side preparation; the shrimp had the fabulous smoky flavor of the fire)


fireplace mollusks in fisherman's net 
(the "net" provided a perfect salty crunch to complement the fish)
 

 pasta carpaccio 
(PRETTIEST PLATE EVER!  and so tasty!)
 

hake 
(enjoyed the crunchy bits)
 

red mullet 
(those little bits that look like pasta are actually the sauces!  they melt in your mouth immediately)
 
 
charcoal grilled lamb 
(possible the BEST lamb we've ever had, and the sauce reminded DJ of Ethiopian awaze; considered coming back the next day and just ordering it a la carte)
 

"xaxu" and coconut iced mousse 
(the mousse was much lighter than it appears; dissolves in your mouth like cold, airy cotton candy!)
 

a different apple tart 
(the "paper" is the apple, with the consistency of a Fruit Roll Up!) 
 


BEKARKI MENU 

xangurro in essence 
(the rice grains are actually pasta!  and the crab: sweet and juicy)

razor shell with veal shank 
(perfect contrast of texture and flavors)
 

 sauteed fresh foie gras  
(the "salt" is sugar flakes and the "pepper" is rice!)
 

turbot
(DJ enjoyed the first few bites, but the fish flavors became overpowering)
 
 
"desalted" cod box 
(presented as cod used to be transported: salted on top of wood chips; but the "wood" was like corn chips!)
 
 

carved beef 
(at first glance, DJ thought it was topped with ketchup and was mortified; but that's natural juices from the beef - perfect for a guy who loves his meat rare!)
 

milk & grape, cheese & wine in parallel evolution 
(a cheese plate meant to represent the journey of making cheese and wine) 
 
 

layered strawberry and cream 
(this is a strawberry nature wishes it could create!)
 
 

In terms of favorite flavors, DJ really enjoyed the xangurro in essence, razor shell with veal shank, the carved beef, and the layered strawberry in cream. Mel loved the mollusks, pasta carpaccio, grilled lamb, and xaxu with coconut iced mousse. 

 [You may notice neither of us rave about the fish dishes that much at any of the places we visit. We're learning that many chefs here seem to use every piece of the fish (bones, brains, organs) to make the sauce that goes over the fish. So the whole dish really has the "taste of the ocean." It takes incredible culinary skill and we appreciate that, but we're realizing it may be an acquired taste. Well, at least for folks like us who grew up with dishes that try to subdue fishy flavor with sauces, spices, and citrus. Perhaps before we leave we'll develop a liking for it... But in the meantime, we maintain: Spaniards know how to do meat!!!! The beef and lamb both left us speechless.] 

At the end of the meal, Chef Subijana came out to greet each table. Another thing we've learned on this trip is that DJ is not one to get starstruck. Mel, on the other hand, squeals like a schoolgirl anywhere in the vicinity of fame. So, you may notice here yet another "Giddy Mel with Chef" picture because DJ lovingly (read: gratefully) let Mel hog all the photo glory (read: embarrassment). 

All in all, there really isn't a way to describe what a heart-warming experience it is to dine in a place where people are so passionate about food. We would recommend Akelaŕe to everyone in a second.

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