The refreshingly brisk breeze between the ocean and hills graced us with their presence once again in this lovely coastal city. We're soaking it all in while we can since we hear there's a heat wave waiting for us back home. This is quite a welcome reprieve. Especially on the day we have our last high-profile food adventure of this trip:
Mugaritz, with 2 Michelin stars and ranked #3 in the entire world!
the restaurant garden where they grow and pick their own ingredients
So apparently, being ranked within the top 3 restaurants of the world means that very few, if any, adjectives exist that will possibly describe the overall experience. And that is exactly what Mugaritz prides itself on; they say eating is more than just food, it is the whole experience. Well, they most certainly succeeded in giving us a dining experience that transcended all others and will likely be held on a pedestal forever.
First off, just the act of getting there is cool. Their property is way up in the hills, and you drive past lots of beautiful farmland along the way.
We arrived a bit early, and a hostess kindly greeted us and offered us a drink in a small cabin next to the restaurant. What a lovely way to make us feel at home.
When the time came, we were escorted to our table. As soon as we walked in the main restaurant, we were struck by how warm and welcoming it felt. There was the faint smell of wood burning in a fireplace, and the tables are arranged in a way that everyone has a view out of the picturesque windows. It really felt like we were visiting the home of friends we'd known forever.
No sooner had we sat down, one of the friendliest hosts we've ever met came over and asked if we had two minutes of time for him. Um, of course! Well, it was time for our tour of the kitchen. We had heard that Mugaritz does this - again, as part of their mission to create a whole experience - but we weren't sure if it was luck of the draw. It is indeed for everyone! And they stagger it so that each table gets their own private tour.
The chef we spoke to was so excited to tell us all about their philosophy and how the place works: 35 different chefs from around the world working to create imaginative cuisine; a prep kitchen downstairs, finishing kitchen on the main floor, and test kitchen/quiet thinking space upstairs.
As we munched on an amuse-bouche of macaroons (made with blood sausage and bleu cheese creating an unexpected symphony of sweet/salty flavors), he told us that in their way of thinking, indifference is the worst reaction to their restaurant. If people hate it, they at least know they created some sort of experience. And of course, if they love it that's fantastic. But for guests to not be moved in any way at all... that they find upsetting. Now this is a place for people who are passionate about their craft!
We had read reviews with drastically different opinions about Mugaritz, so we went in with open minds fully prepared not to like every dish. But, as you will soon see, we quickly became members of the camp that LOVES EVERYTHING Mugaritz has to offer.
Once the food started arriving at tables, we realized that each table was getting different things. Since they only offer a tasting menu and don't provide choices, we were surprised. But our host explained that the kitchen makes a certain number of each dish depending on what's available of the freshest ingredients. Then the head chef will take into account each table - number of people, allergies, food preferences - and create a master plan for which dishes go to each table. Then, individual custom menus are printed in the language of each guest. (He said their goal with everything is to make people feel welcome, and not having to decipher a menu is part of that.)
And awayyyyy we go!!...
"Satiatian eludes bread and olives"
(a note on edible paper to be topped with a lovely olive spread - yum!)
"fishbones" with nuances of lemon, garlic, and cayenne pepper
(awesome savory kick; like the ultimate chip)
marine chords of a crispy woodwind
(extremely fresh herbs in fish sauce, but the consistency was a bit slimy)
cloud of blue fish and fresh flowers
(the lightest, airiest piece of fish we have ever had)
grilled toast of bone marrow with herbs and horseradish ash
(whoa, flavor explosion! reminded Mel of the best eggs on toast, yet it really is bone marrow - brilliant!)
"grapes" of melon and spiced seeds with dried tuna
(perfect combo of sweet and savory with a kick of spice in the seeds; and the "grapes" are made of melon!)
sequence of cultivated herbs with pickled vegetables and creamy dressing
(don't knock it till you try it - flowers are delicious; and what looks like a poached egg underneath is really the salad dressing made of a refreshingly fluffy blue cheese)
artichoke and Iberian ham "tatin" with Clam Chantilly
(possibly DJ'S favorite; we're not usually huge fans of foam but apparently when it's done well it lends just the right amount of zing to a flavor profile)
ravioli of aromatic vegetables
(possibly Mel's favorite; the herbs inside the ravioli were so fresh, we wondered if they had been trimmed from the garden immediately before going in the pan; knowing this place... probably)
hazelnut and bean stew
(the "hazelnuts" are beans, and the white shavings that look like onion slices are slivers of hazelnut paper; amazing Jedi mind trick yet again!)
coastal fish with crunchy trimmings of aged sourdough & sweet pickled onion
[OK, remember our whole diatribe in the last entry about not liking fish here? we take it back when it comes to Mugaritz! the host explained that they only serve line-caught fish and get it directly from the fisherman, not a vendor. what a difference! this fish was so flaky and the flavor so light and simple; the crunchy aged sourdough and pickled onions were a perfect complement.]
roasted loin of hake with grains of aged mascarpone, cauliflowers, and almonds
(also very well done fish; not overpowering flavor at all)
INTERMISSION
All of a sudden, every patron in the restaurant received a mortar and pestle filled with sesame seeds. We were told to grind them as fine as possible, and we could only get the next part to eat if we did it well. Such a cool way to get everyone in the room interactive and sharing a common experience.
Here's a quick video of the interactive element:
breast of guineafowl with lobster emulsion & its roasted skin
(best piece of poultry we have ever eaten)
beef cheek with glaze of its reduction & concentrated juice of grilled red peppers
(reminded Mel of a stew her grandma used to make)
mint
(so juicy and refreshing! like a mojito in one crisp bite)
folded linen with toasted creme fraiche & creme caramel
(yay for more edible paper!)
nails and flowers
(like a goth icecream cone)
"traditional" almond fairy cake
(creamy and rich, yet not too heavy)
coffee and hazelnuts
(real ones, not paper)
Our Mugaritz experience is something we will likely never forget. It is obvious at every turn that a tremendous amount of thought and care went into making sure that each patron leaves thinking a little bit differently about food and how we approach the art of cooking.
Indeed, the chefs and staff there are all artists,
and Mugaritz is a true masterpiece.
